DEREK GLASS (MANIFEST WORLDWIDE CLOTHING) INTERVIEW

North Carolina based Manifest has been designing and manufacturing golden era inspired Hip Hop clothing since 2001. Their ranges pay homage to some of the greats including A Tribe Called Quest, Run DMC, Mobb Deep, Ghostface Killah, Ol’ Dirty Bastard and De La Soul. Grindin’ caught up with the founder Derek Glass to discuss Manifest’s beginnings, its influences and much more.

What are your first memories of Hip Hop?
It was around 1984 or 85 or so that makes me around 8 or so. I guess I had heard Run DMC on the radio and went to the record store at the local mall (which has now been demolished) and bought a compilation tape with everyone from Run DMC, Roxanne shante, whodini, Rockmaster Scott, Kurtis Blow among others and it changed my life forever.

Whereabouts in the States did you grow up and what was the Hip Hop scene there like?
I grew here in the south in North Carolina on a dirt road in the middle of nowhere. It’s for sure not a common place for kids to listen to that style of music. Although I grew up listening to everything from Johnny cash, Kenny rogers, Nat King Cole, Sam Cooke and everything in between but Hip Hop grabbed me like no other. There was not a Hip Hop scene here at that time at all. Kids weren’t really into it until the late 80’s, early 90’s and then it was on.

Did you ever practice any of the 4 elements of Hip Hop?
Well yes and no. I tried my hand at graffiti but never really got my chance to spray any walls or cars so I went to pen and paper. I was really into comic books growing up and was heavy into that and would listen to my old Sanyo boom box and draw and tune everything out.

When did you realise you wanted to start a clothing brand?
I always loved graphic t-shirts and really got hooked watching Beastie Boys videos in high school and was blown away by their style. Run DMC got me hooked on shell toes and the Beasties got me into t-shirts. They had such a great style and would always wear the coolest and wildest tees I’d ever seen. They would come up with these off the wall tees that weren’t available here in the south but i wanted them. When I got into high school, I came up with these Hip Hop characters and wanted to put them on tees. I went to a local copy shop and had them make a dozen heat transfers on tees and then I sold them in the hallways in high school. I was hooked then for sure. Then a store opened up in my town and was carrying all the newest brands I’d never heard about but I was loving what they were doing. Brands like PNB Nation, Kingpin, Fresh Jive, XLarge among others. From then I always kept thinking that I wanted to do tees of my own like that.

How did Manifest Worldwide come about and when did it first start?
Actually I was mowing my yard and was thinking of what I could name a t-shirt brand. I had a few sketches of lyric based ideas but wasn’t sure on what to call it. Then I had the gangstarr song “Words I Manifest” in my head and was like let’s call it Manifest. It’s a great play on words meaning to create and of course a nod to a great Hip Hop song and group. So there it was, Manifest was born in the fall of 2002.

Who were your influences to start the brand?
Like I said XLarge was a great influence as well as Fresh Jive and Stussy. Those guys paved the way for this whole business of “street wear” and what it is today. Hopefully everyone acknowledges that and knows where it came from, the same with Hip Hop. It wouldn’t be what it is today if it wasn’t for the old school cats that kids won’t even listen to today.

When did you realise this could become a full time job?
Well it hasn’t ever become a fulltime job so when it does I’ll let you know. Actually I’ve had an apparel design job for the past 14 years and started my own company with a friend of mine a couple of years ago so I don’t have enough time to do both. I did the magic show in Vegas back in 07 I guess and had a really great showing and thought if I did that kind of business the next season I would quit the day job and do Manifest full-time. But then the street wear bubble popped and I was glad I kept the day job. The Manifest brand has always been a passion over profit business that was created to show love and educate people on the golden age of Hip Hop and the culture of that time.

Describe the general process you go through to design and release of a piece of clothing?
Every Manifest graphic has always and still does come from a sketch on a post it note. I’ve got a folder of all of them that I’d like to scan in and make a book from them showing the sketch and the final tee. Could be great! Everything comes from the music.

Where do you get your inspiration from for your designs?
Music is my sole inspiration. I can see the graphic when I hear the line. I also get ideas from seeing videos, movies, type layouts and getting lost in the internet.

How long does it usually take you to construct a design?
It seems the ones you spend the most time on don’t sale as well as the ones you bang out in 15 minutes. I’d say on average I can create a solid graphic from scratch in an hour or two or three, depending on what’s involved. I’m quick with the keys and mouse so maybe that’s faster than some?

Who are some of your favourite brands and designers?
Like I said, I have been and still am a Stussy fan and love they just did the Yo MTV Raps collection. I picked up 4 for my collection. I also like Undrcrwn, Undftd, Frank The Butcher’s new line and a few others but the industry is going too wild for my 37 year old taste and I can’t get down with that. I like clean, simple, athletic, car club and military inspired brands. Not these floral all over grandma’s couch styles. Those kids will look back in 20 years and think… what was I thinking. I’ve seen it all from the 80’s and have thought the same thing when I look back at pics. But hey, to each their own I guess. I don’t really follow many of the “street wear” brands though as the ones I was fans of years ago have either changed their style or have simply faded away.

How would you define the style your line exemplifies?
The Manifest brand has and always will be very clean and true to what it is, old school born and bred. If you look back at the styles of the late 80’s early 90’s, things were clean but also wild. I design every graphic for myself to wear as I’m the biggest billboard for the brand there is. If I won’t wear it, I won’t create it. I’ve always been a fan of sports logos, letter lockups, clever graphics that you either get or you don’t. I have always loved a clever flipped logo or one you make your own. When I was in high school, Fresh Jive dropped the tide flip logo and I loved it. It made people do a double take. The brand XLarge flipped the classic Yankees hat and made the NY said XL. I flipped on how great that one was. Take the C.R.E.A.M. graphic I came up with years ago (which has since been knocked off and turned into a sold out brand which could’ve been so much better but whatever). That graphic struck a chord with so many people because all of us kids growing up in the early 90’s had that D.A.R.E. logo shoved down our throats so everyone knew it. I just took it and added a little Hip Hop to it and people loved it. To this day, I still get emails from people wanting that tee as they know it is the original and they want to support that.

What are the pros and cons of running a clothing brand?
I think kids see all the brands out there and think they can do it. But what I tell them is if you want to start your own apparel brand and all you think about is how much money you’re going to make, then you’re doing it for the wrong reason and you will fail. It has to be something you have to do and want to do more than anything. Not just a get rich quick scheme. I’d also say it’s a lot of work and long hours. Also figuring out how to get it all done from creating a great line that has appeal, having labels printed, hangtags made, finding a quality printer, buying a great tee or going cut and sew, fulfilling orders and most importantly… getting stores to even give you a chance. It’s a lot easier today to get things made with the help of the internet but that still doesn’t make you a “designer” just because you got a bootleg copy of illustrator.

Have you had much feedback from the artists that inspire some of your designs?
Since I’ve been on instagram, people have reached out and been great and very supportive of the brand. Being able to see the goods on the fans and supporters is what it’s all about. There’s nothing better than seeing DJ Jazzy Jeff wearing one of my tees or hearing that Questlove wants a few tees. It’s still hard to believe sometimes that the guys i looked up to are now wearing something i made. Real recognises real for sure.

The brand is dedicated to the golden age of Hip Hop what are your thoughts on the current Hip Hop scene and it’s fashion?
Well I’m not a huge fan of the current state of Hip Hop or whatever it is nowadays. I couldn’t tell you the last time I listened to the local Hip Hop radio station. I listen to my music through pandora (A Tribe Called Quest station is all you need) and through golden age playlists I make on Spotify. There are great albums and people doing good things for sure but it’s on the underground tip I guess. Love the new Talib album, The Roots are always timeless, my man and avid Manifest supporter Phonte is always great as well as countless others that aren’t on the radio. As for the fashion, I couldn’t tell you as I don’t think they make videos anymore 😉 Bring back Hype Williams!!

What artists are you currently listening to?
I always will listen to my go to albums… anything from the Beastie Boys, A Tribe Called Quest, De La Soul, Ice Cube, Gangstarr and old Outkast. But I also listen to newer stuff from groups like Phonte, JR and PH7, Murs, Apollo BRown, Oddisee, J Live, Black Milk, Talib among others. I also listen to the amazing series of mixes from Neil Armstrong, my man Mandean at A Fancy Mess and the classic hip hop series from the guys at The Rub. Honestly, their 1993 mix is all you’ll ever need.

Where can people buy Manifest Worldwide?
For sure check us at www.manifestworldwide.com for all the goods as well as ughh.com, turntablelab.com, beatstreet.ca, mixunit.com, amoeba.com, hhv.de as well as other quality shops around the world. If you know of any shops that would be a good fit for the Manifest brand, hit me up and we’ll see if we can make it happen.

What advice do you have for aspiring clothing brands?
It’s all about passion, if you don’t have it, don’t bother trying as you won’t make it. If you don’t like working hard and being told no, then you won’t make it. And if you just want to copy what everyone else is doing, you won’t make it. Be yourself and do what you love and people take note.

What does the future hold for Manifest Worldwide?
We are in the process of always designing quality old school goods and are happy the people of the world are digging what we’re doing. We have a few collaborations in the works that should be out in the coming months. Stay tuned for that!

What’s your definition of Grindin’?
I’d say Grindin’ is all about working on something you love. Yes it can be a grind but the end result of seeing fans and people I look up to really liking what the Manifest brand is all about makes it all worth it. It’s all about passion over profit.

Interview by Duggs